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Our panel of experts can answer your questions on DIY problems. Every month the best question
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Previous queries: Paintable liquid Darryl Watson, by email Cindy Engels from A Shak replies: Toilet plunger Can someone please help me find out where I can buy this type of a plunger for a toilet cistern or where I can at least get the bottom rubber seals? The house where it is installed is about 9-10 years old. I have tried numerous outlets, but no one seems to recognise it. Please help. I live in Rosebank, Johannesburg. Navin Sooka, by email Patrick Gordon from Cobra Watertech replies: I am not sure who made the toilet plunger in question, but a universal type seal is available from Plumblink, which has branches across Gauteng. The other option is to replace the whole unit. Similar models are available from most plumbing outlets, but Plumblink and Builders Warehouse will definitely be able to assist. Tile problems I have a problem with tiles which broke because of the moving of the floor. When taking out the damaged tiles, I found the expansion joint. My first option would be to cut the tiles and lay them again, but not with the tile covering the joint. The joint strip, which was supposed to prevent the tiles from breaking, was not placed according to the expansion joint. The problem now is that the expansion joint is not straight. The joint starts in the middle of a tile on the one side and 10 metres further, it is nearly to the one side of the row of tiles I removed. I have two options. The first is to remove the joint strip and install a new strip all on the line of the expansion joint, which will mean that the lines will be totally skew. The second option is to find a product that can be guaranteed so I can just re-lay the tiles over the expansion joint without worrying it will break again due to movement. Nico Coffee, Xtreme Renovations Cindy Engels from A Shak replies: This query is not that easy to solve! I have discussed it with various experts and the conclusion seems to be the same each time. The only way to do this and to prevent the tiles cracking again would be to fill in the existing expansion joint and cut a new one that would be straight with the line of the existing tiling. To cut the tiles to follow the existing expansion joint would be unsightly and from what I understand, you do not want to re-tile the entire room. Glass bricks regulations I would like replace my bathroom windows with glass bricks, but want to know if this is allowed by the South African building regulations? Clive Smith from Build Aid Consulting advises: You may indeed remove the steel windows and replace them with glass bricks as long as there is adequate mechanical forced ventilation for the bathroom. The ventilation bricks in the wall will not count for natural ventilation. I suggest that you contact your local municipality and explain the size and type of the mechanical ventilation in place at present just to confirm it is sufficient, but I am sure it is okay. There is a company that will cut out the existing steel frame and replace it with either aluminium or wooden frames. This is great as it means you need not destroy the plaster reveals around the existing window frame. The cost of this window replacement system will more than likely be the same, if not cheaper than removing the old steel window, buying the glass bricks, replastering the reveals and soffits, and repainting the surrounding walls, not to mention the fact that you might have to retile the internal wall. What concerns me is why the glass cracks with the rusting of the steel window frames.
George Killian The bottom of my pool is stained and discoloured, caused by black algae. Do I need to drain the pool to clean it or can you recommend an easier option? Ed Most pool companies agree that once black algae is established, it is extremely difficult to control. It is said that the algae penetrates the plaster and concrete and it may develop a mucus layer which needs to be penetrated before you can remove it. If the staining and discolouration is severe, it may be a problem. First try the bleaching method before opting to drain the pool by adding hydrogen peroxide, which is effective but not guaranteed. The treatment is lengthy and it is best to consult your local pool shop for the correct procedure and aftercare. When using hydrogen peroxide in your pool water, chlorine may not be added for at least five days and no swimming should be allowed during this period. Annatjie de Kock I am a 62-year-young granny and want to colour my bath, since I like the size of my bath and prefer enamel baths to the new models on the market that tend to be small and made of fibreglass. Is this possible and what do I need? Is it possible to do it so that it looks like a professional job and what will be the lifespan of such a bath? Ed There is no reason why you cannot tackle this project yourself. There is a product manufactured by Rust-Oleum and available from Tile and Floor Care. The product comes in kit form, is available in white, amber and biscuit and is simply painted on to porcelain or ceramic surfaces. For more information and to find your nearest supplier contact, 011 822 6901 or visit www.tilecare.co.za. Johan Struwig The vent pipe on the outflow of the toilet is made from old fashioned cast iron. When repairs and maintenance had to be done, the inspection hole had to be opened. The screws were rusted and had to be broken off to remove the cover. Is there any product or plan someone can suggest to enable me to keep the cover on the hole in such a way that the cover can be removed at regular intervals, so that I can clear the roots etc, from the sewage pipes? I don't like the idea of using putty or silicon every time this cover has to be replaced. Sharl Bennie The one way is to drill out the old screws and to tap new threads in the hole to accommodate new screws. The shortcut that I normally use is to seal with 'pan seal ring wax' and then tie the cover in place with a large cable tie. I hope this method works for you. If you need to gain access again, you simply cut the cable tie and replace it with a new one. MJ Pillemer On most electric drills there are three holes in the chuck for tightening the jaws around the drill bit. When I started learning to use power tools, I was taught that when inserting a drill bit in the jaws, one has to use the chuck key in each of the holes in the chuck and not just in one to tighten the jaws. Is this correct? Denis Lock You are right! There is always some play (increases with age and use) in the internal thread of the chuck and it is good practice to 'nip' each jaw up evenly by using the key in all three holes. This is especially important when using larger diameter bits and bits which tend to vibrate, such as spade bits. Pierre le Roux Due to rising damp, the steel doorframes in our house are rusting badly. Over the years, I have tried a number of options, lately filling the affected areas with automotive body filler. Notwithstanding the rust, it is still blistering over the painted areas. Have you got any suggestions to solve this problem? Brandon Stirk - Hammerite To solve this problem, you ideally need to fix the rising damp, as it's the moisture that is causing the continuous rusting. I would recommend the following as a temporary fix. Remove all loose and flaking paint and rust. Allow the damp areas to dry. Apply two coats of Hammerite No. 1 Rustbeater and allow it to dry for 24 hours. Fill with the automotive filler and allow to dry for a further 24 hours and apply two coats Hammerite Direct To Rust - colour of your choice. Mike Howis My bathroom ceiling keeps getting black spots, which I think is a fungus or mould. Somebody suggested cleaning it with vinegar and water and it got rid of it for at least a month, but it has started to come back again. The ceiling was painted with Dulux 65. Is there any other kind of fungal paint that can be used? The bathroom is well ventilated after bathing and there is an extraction fan with an air brick above 200mm away from it, which is just under the ceiling. John Reid - Dulux The common reason for ceiling mould is humidity and lack of ventilation. We would suggest that you use Dulux Wallguard on the ceiling. Firstly, clean the ceiling thoroughly using swimming pool chlorine to the ratio of one tablespoon to one litre of water and apply using a brush and wait for two days before applying the paint. Please note that you should wear eye goggles and gloves whilst applying the chlorine.
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